UK Edition
Forget about France - here's the 28 most beautiful bike rides in Britain
As the Tour de France begins, thousands of Brits will be getting on their bikes - but you don't need to cross the channel to find glorious, scenic rides. Mark Bailey introduces our guide to the country's most memorable routes for two-wheeled adventure
Today's Tour de France Grand Départ marks the start of the world's biggest bike race, but it also traditionally sparks the great British summer cycling getaway, as TV footage of sunflower fields and Alpine peaks inspires recreational and family cyclists to start planning their own two-wheeled escapes. However, Britain's most well-travelled cyclist, Mark Beaumont - who set a Guinness world record with his 194-day global bike circumnavigation in 2007-08, and tomorrow embarks on a daring new Jules Verne-inspired quest to pedal around the world in just 80 days - insists there is no cycling landscape quite like home.
"I have cycled in 130 different countries but I am always amazed at the staggering diversity of geography right here in the UK," explains Beaumont, 31, who lives in Perthshire with his wife Nicci and daughters Harriet, three, and Willa, one. This sentiment was confirmed during his 14-day, 3,500-mile odyssey around the coastline of Britain in April, in preparation for his global challenge. "My highlights were Devon and Cornwall, especially the beautiful views along the north coast from Land's End to Bristol; Snowdonia National Park with the backdrop of mountains, slate mines and villages; and the north-west of Scotland around Bealach na Bá, which is often voted the best cycling climb in the UK, and the Applecross peninsula. From Torridon the views of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye seem like the fjords of Norway."
Although known for his record-breaking speed, Beaumont still cherishes the joys of slow travel. "On a bike your senses are tuned into the world around you, so it's like a slideshow of changing landscapes, hills, coastlines and towns. Travelling by bike, you also get to enjoy all the local cuisines, cultures, quirks and characters which make Britain the mad melting pot that it is."
For a cyclist who has pedalled through the sweltering heat of the Sahara, even the British weather is a blessing. "As much as we grumble, we actually have a very kind climate for cycling. The weather is mild and we don't suffer extremes."
Easy access to roads and trails - the National Cycle Network now covers 14,000 miles, with Brits pedalling a combined 3.5 billion miles last year - and a boom in bike-friendly hotel websites like Beds For Cyclists make logistics for cycling staycations tantalisingly simple. "We used to have either serious road cyclists or slower tourers, but now there is a massive middle ground with cyclists of all abilities just travelling light and enjoying short breaks," says Beaumont. "Combine a train and a bicycle and there is no part of Britain that is out of reach, even over a weekend."
After departing Paris tomorrow, Beaumont plans to ride 240 miles per day, crossing 14 countries in 80 days. But even a man who has pedalled the circumference of the Earth looks forward to coming home and riding the hills and lanes of Perthshire with his family.
"We have huge mountain scenery and Munros here - the climb to Sma' Glen is staggering and the Amulree Pass, around Loch Tay, is like an Alpine switchback - but also flat rides around lochs and family-friendly trails. Harriet is big enough to pedal her own bike but Willa tags along in a chariot, so we rumble along nicely. When I have finished pedalling around the world, I'll happily enjoy some more gentle adventures back home."
Follow Mark's challenge at artemisworldcycle.com
1. The Scottish Highlands
By Krishnan Guru-Murthy, newsreader
Two years ago, I was training for a charity cycle ride to Paris with a friend who suggested we try a route he knew in the Scottish Highlands. It is a gorgeous spot. Getting from Dingwall to Strathpeffer, a pretty Victorian spa town, is simple - but then you head past Loch Garve, and you go past forest and hills and have amazing views.
It's very different to cycling around Richmond Park in London, which is my standard training ride. The air is extraordinary because it's so clean. I'm not fit, but if I'm panting there, I'm panting Scottish Highland air, which is beautiful. And there's no traffic to contend with, either. You have got some climbs, but for every uphill there's a downhill, and there are various stops along the way with brilliant scenery. It's a complete getaway, and to do it on a bike is exhilarating.
Krishnan was training for the Duchenne Dash, an annual cycle to Paris that raises money for Duchenne UK, a muscular dystrophy charity.
2. The Surrey Hills
By Joanna Rowsell Shand, Olympic cycling champion
I moved north when I was 18 to be closer to the Manchester velodrome, but I am originally from Cheam in Surrey and I love going back to ride there. There is a misconception among northerners that Surrey is flat, so I like to show them we have plenty of hills. The Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty are full of short, steep climbs, like Leith Hill and Ranmore Common. I often head to Epsom, out through Headley and then down Pebble Hill, before heading home over Box Hill.
The Box Hill café is a good stop. In 2004, Box Hill felt like a secret. If I saw another rider I would go home to my parents and tell them about it. Now it is always busy - but I am proud of how popular cycling has become here. After winning my Olympic medals, I have a gold post box in Cheam. Whenever I go back, I like to check it's still there.
3. The Cairngorms National Park
By Chris Boardman, former professional cyclist
For breathtaking solitude it is hard to beat Aviemore and the Cairngorms. I often take the Caledonian sleeper train (which runs from London to Aviemore), get an OS map on my phone, plot out a little route and just explore. Because of the ‘right to roam’ in Scotland, if you can see a place on a map, you can go there. The sheer size and expanse of the area is incredible.
Aviemore itself is a lovely town – big enough to have great eateries and hotels but small enough that everyone knows each other. There are bike paths near the roads so I often see parents riding with kids. But within 2-3 minutes you can be out into the wild, with incredible countryside and lots of well-kept forestry trails.
For families, the Speyside Way towards the Boat of Garten is a lovely ride. It’s predominantly flat and runs alongside a railway and river. For a bigger challenge, take the old Burma road where there is a steep 45-minute climb - even if the weather is good, there can be snow on top.
The options are almost limitless. I have been going for a decade and haven’t run out of possibilities. It’s wonderful to be able to explore but know you’re never far from a pub.
Visit www.boardmanbikes.com
4. East Devon
By Laurence McJannet, travel writer
At this time of year, I love the undulating landscape and cool sea breeze of the 21-mile loop between Gittisham and Sidmouth on the south coast. The route begins and ends at the Hare and Hounds pub at Putts Corner (a pint awaits at the finish).
I like to split the ride into two days, with my tent in tow. On the first day, follow the rolling bridle path over the Bronze Age barrow of Farway Castle, and down towards Sidbury. You'll soon be riding alongside the river, eventually splashing through a ford en route to Sidmouth's promenade.
The foreshore is often my chosen camping spot... be careful to check the tide before pitching! A climb to Mutter's Moor beckons in the morning, before reaching a railway cutting in Harpford Wood. After whizzing through pretty villages, prepare for the final ascent up Westgate Hill. Remember that pint!
Laurence is the author of Bikepacking: Mountain Bike Camping Adventure on the Wild Trails of Britain, published by Wild Things.
5. The North Wales coast
By Anna Hughes, travel writer
Flying with the wind on a secluded cycle path flanked by sand dunes and the distant backdrop of mountains is what coastal cycling should be about. And this is what much of NCN route 5 allows: a largely traffic-free ride along the north coast of Wales, from Bangor to the castle-dominated walls of Conwy, and on through the Victorian elegance of Llandudno and the bustling coastal resort of Colwyn Bay.
The Irish Sea pounds the coastline here in powerful, relentless surges, the waves whipped into action by the omnipresent wind. And wind is a defining feature of this route - make sure you ride from west to east. Not doing so was my downfall (literally) a few years ago. Heading westwards into a ferocious headwind, my battle ended with my being physically blown off. Don't let that put you off. Mostly flat, the route is a wonderful glimpse of our magnificent coastline.
Anna Hughes is the author of Eat, Sleep, Cycle: A bike ride around the coast of Britain, published by Summersdale.
6. The Yorkshire Dales
By Jonny Brownlee, triathlete
Nobody is going to be surprised when I say Yorkshire is the best place for a bike ride. Alistair and I grew up here so we have been riding around the Yorkshire Dales since we were kids, messing around with an Ordnance Survey Map and getting lost. I live near Leeds so it's easy to get out to the Dales. I love riding around the Wharfe Valley and heading out to the villages of Grassington and Kettlewell.
The Dales are amazing with all the little lanes and dry stone walls. I definitely recommend people go to Burnsall too, mainly because there is a great café there called the Wharfe View Tea Room which does good cakes. If you want a proper climb, Fleet Moss is a really good one. It's the highest road in Yorkshire. But for something more relaxing, one of my favourite destinations is Bolton Abbey, which is an old monastery by a river and a great place for a rest stop.
Jonny rides the Scott Foil. Visit scott-sports.com
7. Cheshire
By Sarah Storey, cyclist
I'm lucky to live on the border of Cheshire and the Peak District. The scenery in Cheshire is the biggest draw. It's a good mix of rolling hills with grazing animals as well as leafy lanes in the flatter parts. I like the rural nature of it, but there are good climbs, like the Brickworks climb between Pott Shrigley and Kettleshulme, that add a bit of leg burn.
I sometimes meet my husband Barney and my daughter Louisa, who is four, at Goostrey Home and Leisure – a big country store which has a great cafe and play area. You can have the best of both worlds here, with flatter rides and hillier rides in the mix. But I am pregnant again now so as I get further along I’ll stick to the quiet, flat lanes.
I mostly ride by myself but it's nice when Barney and I head out together. A lot of my teammates at Storey Racing – a team we set up for female riders - live locally, so I ride with them too. But my most memorable ride was a tandem ride I did with Barney. We ended up riding for three hours – hard going, on a tandem!
Visit www.storeyracing.cc and @StoreyRT
8. Grizedale Forest
By Cathy Bussey, journalist
The Lake District has been a family holiday favourite of mine since I was a child. I have fond memories of my brother going mountain biking for an afternoon and spending the next week pointing out all the places where he’d fallen off. Some twenty-five years later, I am still riding the trails in the Lakes, most frequently at Grizedale Forest in Ambleside. Last time I even fell off – off a rickety wooden bridge into a bog up to my knee.
The trails here are stunning and very family-friendly, with gentle off-road pootling for the youngest rider and a range of hire bikes. Some of the hills, particularly up Hawkshead Moors, are taxing, so use a tow-along if you’re worried about the strength and endurance of your children’s little legs. The paths are wide enough for a trailer and the views of nearby Coniston Water are worth the climb.
But I’ll let you into a secret – my husband and I haven’t taken the children around Grizedale yet. The downhill trails, cutting through acres of unspoilt coniferous forest teeming with wildlife, are just too good. The rocky climbs, babbling streams, steep descents and utterly addictive jumps most definitely aren’t for the faint-hearted or uninitiated. They’re strictly for the grown-ups - and an afternoon at Grizedale is the best ‘date night’ either of us have had in seven years of marriage.
20 of Sustrans' most beautiful rides in the UK
Cycling and walking charity Sustrans, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary, selects some of its most stunning rides from the National Cycle Network (NCN) - a series of traffic-free paths and quiet on-road cycling routes across the UK. Route maps can be found at sustrans.org.uk.
England
9. Hampton Court to Putney, London. NCN Route 4; 12 miles
Start by the grand Hampton Court Palace and follow the Thames to Kingston, past Teddington Lock and into Richmond Park. The London Wetland Centre at Barnes makes for a family-friendly stop.
Terrain: Tarmac streets and riverside paths
Difficulty: easy
10. The Cuckoo Trail, East Sussex. NCN 21; 11 miles
Starting at Polegate Train Station and following 11 miles of mostly traffic-free paths north to Heathfield, this former railway line is one of the most popular family rides in the South East. Listen out for the distinctive calls of the cuckoo.
Terrain: Traffic-free and smooth
Difficultly: easy
11. Bath Two Tunnels, somerset. NCN 244, 24 and 4; 13 miles
This iconic route links central Bath, Midford, Monkton Combe and beyond. The ride passes through the Devonshire Tunnel and the mile-long Combe Down Tunnel - the UK's longest cycle tunnel.
Terrain: Traffic-free tarmac and gravel
Difficulty: easy
12. Coasts and Castles, North East. NCN 1; 200 miles
4 One of the NCN's easiest, but no less epic, long-distance routes. It hugs the coastline from Newcastle to Berwick-upon-Tweed, then heads inland via Melrose to Edinburgh, passing the world famous Lindisfarne and Bamburgh castles en route.
Terrain: Mostly on road, with some gentle climbs
Difficulty: moderate
13. The Monsal Trail, Peak District, Derbyshire. NCN Route 680; 9 miles
A short route that runs through four railway tunnels. Look out for the Water-cum-Jolly, a beautiful river gorge with fine limestone cliffs.
Terrain: Traffic-free path
Difficulty: easy
14. Morecambe Bay, North West. NCN 700; 81 miles
A long-distance route that takes you on a tour around one of Britain's most beautiful stretches of coastline. Make a note to stop in the pretty village of Cartmel - the home to sticky toffee pudding!
Terrain: Mostly quiet highways and stone or woodland paths
Difficulty: moderat
15. Tissington Trail, Derbyshire. NCN 68; 13 miles
Start in the historic market town of Ashbourne and make your way to Parsley Hay, passing the picturesque village of Tissington and the beautiful Derbyshire Dales countryside.
Terrain: Country lanes with easy gradients
Difficulty: easy
16. The Cotswold Line. NCN 442 and 48; 43 miles
A route that showcases the idyllic Cotswold scenery at its very best. The initial section is a bit hilly but the reward is a roll through the delightful little village of Broad Campden.
Terrain: Quiet roads, with some gradients
Difficulty: moderate
17. Red Squirrel Route, Isle of Wight. NCN 23; 32 miles
The route starts in Cowes and includes two long sections of railway path - the first runs alongside the River Medina and the second plunges through idyllic countryside to the outskirts of Sandown. Keep your eyes peeled for those red squirrels!
Terrain: Tarmac roads and gravel paths (railway paths are family-friendly)
Difficulty: eas
18. Ilfracombe to Plymouth, Devon. NCN 27; 99 miles
Known as the Devon Coast to Coast cycle route, this combines North Devon's beaches and estuaries with the lush green valleys of Torridge and Tavey. Former railway lines form most of the trail, so you shouldn't need to worry about cars.
Terrain: Mostly traffic-free trails
Difficulty: moderate
19. Mousehole, Penzance and Hayle, Cornwall. NCN 3; 13 miles
Less experienced riders can enjoy a pleasant pedal along the coast with this route, which takes in the picturesque harbour of Mousehole and the working fishing port of Newlyn.
Terrain: Mostly tarmac
Difficulty: easy
Wales
20. Porthmadog to Dolgellau, Gwynedd. NCN 8; 35 miles
This challenging route takes you through dramatic Welsh scenery. You can take two different routes - along the stunning Mawddach estuary coastline, or inland via the heart of Snowdonia. Really adventurous cyclists turn the two into one large circuit.
Terrain: Some steep gradients and off-road sections
Difficulty: hard
21. The Celtic Trail West (Swansea to Fishguard). NCN 4 and 47; 143 miles
A cross-country route that can be split into a number of shorter rides. The Millennium Coastal Park between Burry Port and Llanelli is particularly good for families, offering car-free paths, a Discovery Centre and gorgeous coastal views.
Terrain: Both off and on road riding
Difficulty: moderate
22. Radnor Ring, Powys. NCN 8 and 825; 84 miles
A circular route, starting at Rhayader, around the old county of Radnorshire. It follows a combination of country lanes, river valleys, traffic-free trails and mountain roads, with views of some of mid-Wales's most spectacular scenery.
Terrain: Both off- and on-road riding
Difficulty: hard
Scotland
23. Caledonia Way, Scottish Highlands. NCN 78; 237 miles
One of the UK's finest long-distance cycle routes, the Caledonia Way, runs through the spectacular scenery of the west-coast of Scotland, en route from Campbeltown to Inverness - following both the Kintyre peninsula and the Great Glen for their full lengths. It runs through the shadow of Britain's highest mountain, Ben Nevis, and skirts Loch Ness, where the brooding ruins of Urquhart Castle can be viewed across the water.
Terrain: A 50:50 split between traffic-free towpaths and quiet roads
Difficulty: hard
24. Oban to Fort William, Scottish Highlands. Part of NCN 78; 48 miles
A spectacular one-day ride on the Caledonia Way. The route passes the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary, and the path over the hill to Kentallen takes you to the highest point on the route, overlooking Loch Linnhe.
Terrain: Quiet roads and paths and some steep climbs
Difficulty: hard
25. The Scottish Canal Network. NCN 754 and 75; 56 miles
A scenic ride connecting Scotland's main cities - Glasgow and Edinburgh. En route, take a small detour to Helix Park, where the magnificent Kelpies - 30-metre-high horse-head sculptures - await.
Terrain: Flat, traffic-free canal towpaths
Difficulty: moderate
26. The Speyside Way, Cairngorms National Park. NCN 7; 5 miles
Look out for red squirrels as you thread your way through native birch woodland and heather moor between the Cairngorms National Park and Moray Firth. At Boat of Garten, a finishing point, pop into the Boat Hotel, which is great for tea and cakes, and then jump on the steam train to the start (bikes travel for free).
Terrain: Quiet, family friendly lanes and off-road cycle paths
Difficulty: easy
Northern Ireland
27. Larne to Portstewart, Northern Ireland. NCN 93 and 115; 71 miles
This scenic route runs along the historic Antrim Coast Road. Leave time to take a ferry across to Rathlin Island - home to a puffin colony at this time of year - and don't miss the Giant's Causeway, a World Heritage Site.
Terrain: On-road and rural.
Difficulty: moderate
28. The Lagan and Lough Cycleway, Northern Ireland. NCN 93 and 9; 21 miles
The route starts in Lisburn at Lagan Valley Island and ends at Jordanstown, Loughshore Park. It passes along the waterside of the Lagan Towpath and the Belfast Lough Nature Reserve, an important feeding area for a large range of wildfowl including redshanks, oystercatchers and black-tailed godwits.
Terrain: Level and traffic-free
Difficulty: easy