Suffer From Eczema? Here’s Exactly How To Approach Your Skincare Routine

As soon as the temperature drops in October, a big red blotch appears on my right cheek and over my eyelids. Facial eczema is definitely the hardest to combat, and the edit of products below has really helped me to keep my eczema down. I still have a red mark on my cheek, but it isn’t sore or itchy, and does not look nearly as angry as it might do if left it alone. This year, it’s simply a rougher patch of manageable skin. (Not like last year, when I had to sit in the open-plan office with a make-up free, blotchy face slathered in Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream to try and ease the pain.)

When it comes to dealing with eczema, I have tried everything. I’ve thrown money at the problem, tried dead sea salt baths, slathered myself in horrible greasy emollients (which leave me feeling like a chicken prepped to be roasted, not nice). You name it, I’ve probably done it. And over the course of 25 years, I have picked up some valuable learnings – however obvious they may seem. Baths are to be avoided, or kept short and lukewarm. Ditto showers, which should be lukewarm, never hot, and kept to one a day (and even skipped some days). Non-bio washing powder is the only way. I have learned to avoid wool and unnatural fibres, and always carry a nourishing balm for flare-ups (Bobbi Brown’s is highly recommended). On top of that I now know not to wear make-up over eczema on my face, and avoid wearing any when possible, and – finally – there is no such thing as too much moisturiser.

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Recently, I’ve started taking a probiotic called Symprove to see if I can heal from within, and Curapel just announced a supplement called Pellamex to help boost fillaggrin production (fillaggrin is a protein that strengthens the skin barrier and it is found to be lacking in most eczema sufferers), so maybe that’s worth a spin too. For now though, I stand by a rigorously tested edit of skincare products that keep me moisturised, boost my skin’s hydration and soothe irritations to help keep sores at bay.

What actually is eczema?

Defined by distinct patches of rough, dry skin that is often red and scaly, eczema is a non-contagious skin condition that is sometimes referred to as atopic dermatitis. Often its most distressing symptom is a gnawing itch that accompanies these patches, which can appear all over the body. “When eczema is very active, it may also become moist, crusted or weepy,” says dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “The skin can also eventually become thicker and darker in areas that are repeatedly scratched.” Atopic eczema is the most common form of the skin condition, though others include contact dermatitis and seborrheic dermatitis.

What causes eczema?

There is no official “cause” of eczema, but scientists suspect that it is a byproduct of the immune system’s reaction to external aggressors. Genetics has its role too. “Eczema tends to run in families, so if one or both parents are sufferers, it’s more likely that their children will develop it too,” says Kluk. While one in five children suffer with the condition, stats show that by their teenage years, 60 per cent of early sufferers become clear-skinned. “Exposure to allergens and infection with certain bacteria can lead to flare-ups, and there is some evidence to suggest that stress can lower the threshold for a flare-up too,” says Kluk. Extremely hot or cold weather, illness, dust and pets can also trigger a resurgence.

What ingredients can irritate eczema?

Bad eczema episodes can be triggered by anything too aggressive or full of chemicals; soaps, detergents, foaming agents and fragrances can all exacerbate it. “It’s also best to avoid any active skincare ingredients on areas affected by eczema,” says Kluk. “That includes retinol and alpha hydroxy acids.”

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What does a good skincare routine look like for eczema-prone skin?

“Eczema is characterised by skin barrier dysfunction,” says Kluk, highlighting the crux of what a clever eczema skincare routine should set out to do: reinforce and take care of that skin barrier.

First thing’s first: emollient therapy. “This means cleansing twice daily with a soap substitute and frequently – and liberally – applying moisturiser,” says Kluk, who suggests applying an emollient up to three times each day. In general, the dryer skin is, the greasier your emollient should be. “Moisturising helps restore the integrity of the skin barrier, so it should be a fundamental part of an eczema sufferer’s skincare routine, even when flare-ups have been put to rest.”

Kluk’s top tip is to monitor the general quality of skin. If it is dry in some places and oily in others, look to using a lighter moisturiser gel or fluid cream on the areas where skin is oilier, and a richer cream or ointment on areas where skin is drier. As for SPF – you can’t get away that easily – it’s still important to use where possible, but as most eczema sufferers will know, it can be difficult to tolerate. Kluk recommends testing a few different formulas on a small area first to ensure they don’t sting or further irritate skin. “Look for mineral or physical sunscreens, and those labelled suitable for sensitive skin.”

Below, some of the best skincare products for eczema-prone skin.